Showing posts with label maintenance. Show all posts
Showing posts with label maintenance. Show all posts
Thursday, November 12, 2015
Planning for spring - Hosta Dividing
These are the hostas down the side showing the large vs small so that I know which and where to cut up in the spring.
Tuesday, March 18, 2014
Endless Winter, Spring Planning
No photos 'cause basically I'd be putting up pictures of white.
This has been a very snowy year.
I don't mind the snow. I like having a snow day.
What I don't like is when it's warm - teases - things start coming up, and then it snows.
I think my daffodils were about 3 inches above the ground, I think one is trying to bloom, and now they are all under white.
Can't wait for a warm day!
I am going to rake leaves out of the flower beds and put down a big bag of wildflower seeds my mom sent. I'm hoping the seeds sprout before the mulch arrives at the end of the month.
Then...
move some things
stake some things
take care of clematis
plant some pots!
and do I really want a hydrangea ?
This has been a very snowy year.
I don't mind the snow. I like having a snow day.
What I don't like is when it's warm - teases - things start coming up, and then it snows.
I think my daffodils were about 3 inches above the ground, I think one is trying to bloom, and now they are all under white.
Can't wait for a warm day!
I am going to rake leaves out of the flower beds and put down a big bag of wildflower seeds my mom sent. I'm hoping the seeds sprout before the mulch arrives at the end of the month.
Then...
move some things
stake some things
take care of clematis
plant some pots!
and do I really want a hydrangea ?
Tuesday, September 10, 2013
2014 Spring Garden Maintenance
Divide and move Liatris
Transplant Agastache
Plant Hydrangea next to Buddleia
Divide and plant Del Oro along the edge of the bed.
Place Supports: http://lisafolb.blogspot.com/2013/07/garden-maintenance-support.html
Transplant Agastache
Plant Hydrangea next to Buddleia
Divide and plant Del Oro along the edge of the bed.
Place Supports: http://lisafolb.blogspot.com/2013/07/garden-maintenance-support.html
Liatris Care
Deadhead fading blooms by cutting the stems back to the plants' basal leaves. Make new plants by allowing flowers to go to seed or by dividing overgrown clumps every 2 or 3 years.
Plants do best when you divide in spring, but you can also divide them in fall as long as transplants have enough time to develop roots before the ground freezes.
Plants do best when you divide in spring, but you can also divide them in fall as long as transplants have enough time to develop roots before the ground freezes.
Friday, July 26, 2013
Garden maintenance - support
I need to remember to place supports for more of the bushes. This is my reminder!
First, the plants I seem to remember to support:
sage
purple
white 1
white 2
The plants I need to remember to stake next year:
Coreopsis
Black-eyed Susan/Heliotrope
Agastache
First, the plants I seem to remember to support:
sage
purple
white 1
white 2
The plants I need to remember to stake next year:
Coreopsis
Black-eyed Susan/Heliotrope
Agastache
Wednesday, July 10, 2013
Clematis Maintenance
... from White Flower Farm
Light/Watering: In general, these lush vines like at least six hours of sun; some varieties are adapted to partial shade and all benefit from afternoon shade in the South. Clematis prefers a cool root run, so lay flat stones at its base, or plant annuals or shallow-rooted perennials around them. Regular watering is desirable, especially during seasonal dry periods. Clematis is deep-rooted, so water thoroughly.
Fertilizer/Soil and pH: Clematis is at its best in rich soils with good drainage. It prefers a neutral soil, so check pH and add lime if needed. Avoid fresh manures. Clematis is a heavy feeder; supply a low nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10 in spring, when the buds are about 2 inches long. Alternate feedings every 4 to 6 weeks with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer. Continue this alternate feeding until the end of the growing season.
Pests/Diseases: Clematis is susceptible to fungi that can cause the vine to suddenly wilt and turn brown or black. Carefully prune out all diseased tissue and destroy; disinfect your pruners with a bleach solution. Generally this disease is not fatal, especially if you have planted the vine correctly, as dormant buds will send up new growth from the crown. Handle gently when planting and be careful when cultivating, as physical injury to the stems can cause them to wilt and die.
Reflowering: To promote reflowering for late season bloomers during the growing season, the vine can be cut by one-half after the main bloom period. Varieties that flower on old and new wood will often throw out a few blooms at the end of the growing season.
Transplanting: Young vines may be moved with plenty of soil as long as they are watered religiously. Depending on variety, cut back lightly or severely before moving in early spring.
Pruning: Dead or damaged stems may be removed at any time. Early in the first spring after planting, prune the stems of all Clematis varieties down to the lowest pair of healthy buds. Thereafter, prune to control size and shape or to encourage more profuse bloom.
Flowering tends to decline on stems that are four or more years old, so it's a good idea to prune out very old stems periodically in early spring. This pruning helps produce more compact plants with flowers closer to eye level. Sometimes, on older vines, the flowering is confined to a small area at the tops of the stems. If you wish, you can rejuvenate old plants by cutting them back severely, to about 18in. Wait until after the first flush of bloom to perform the surgery.
Group II plants bloom first on old wood and then again on new; prune lightly in early spring to shape and remove weak growth and then prune after bloom if desired. Group II varieties include Rosemoor™
End of Season Care: Plants may be mulched, but take care to keep mulch material away from the crowns and stems of the plants. Check to make sure that the vines of Group I and II plants are tied securely to supports to withstand winter winds.
Calendar of Care
Early Spring: Fertilize with 5-10-10 when new growth reaches two inches. If you need to move a plant, transplant young vines now. Wait until new growth appears before removing dead or damaged stems and before pruning as required by variety: leave Group I Clematis alone; prune Group II plants lightly to shape and remove weak growth; cut Group III varieties back to 12 inches above the ground, or higher if you desire taller vines.
If this is the first spring after planting, prune stems of all varieties down to the lowest pair of healthy buds to encourage strong growth and new stems.
Mid-Spring: Continue feeding every month, alternating 5-10-10 with 10-10-10. Plant annuals at base of plants if unprotected by flat stones to allow for a cool root zone. Gently tie vines to supports as they grow.
Late Spring: Mulch if desired but keep material away from crowns and stems. Water thoroughly if season is dry. Cultivate around vines with care as physical injury will cause wilting and death of injured stems. Continue to guide new growth by tying to supports as needed. Lightly prune Group I Clematis immediately after flowering to shape the vines if needed.
Summer: Watch for signs of fungal wilt and remove and destroy affected plant parts if it occurs, then sterilize pruners with bleach solution. Group II Clematis may be pruned back by one-half after main flush of bloom to encourage strong growth and new flowers. Continue to water if conditions indicate.
Fall: Check to be certain that the vines of Group I and II varieties are tied securely to supports to withstand winter wind and snow. Mulch if desired, keeping material away from the crown. If the season is dry, water well and deeply.
Light/Watering: In general, these lush vines like at least six hours of sun; some varieties are adapted to partial shade and all benefit from afternoon shade in the South. Clematis prefers a cool root run, so lay flat stones at its base, or plant annuals or shallow-rooted perennials around them. Regular watering is desirable, especially during seasonal dry periods. Clematis is deep-rooted, so water thoroughly.
Fertilizer/Soil and pH: Clematis is at its best in rich soils with good drainage. It prefers a neutral soil, so check pH and add lime if needed. Avoid fresh manures. Clematis is a heavy feeder; supply a low nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10 in spring, when the buds are about 2 inches long. Alternate feedings every 4 to 6 weeks with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer. Continue this alternate feeding until the end of the growing season.
Pests/Diseases: Clematis is susceptible to fungi that can cause the vine to suddenly wilt and turn brown or black. Carefully prune out all diseased tissue and destroy; disinfect your pruners with a bleach solution. Generally this disease is not fatal, especially if you have planted the vine correctly, as dormant buds will send up new growth from the crown. Handle gently when planting and be careful when cultivating, as physical injury to the stems can cause them to wilt and die.
Reflowering: To promote reflowering for late season bloomers during the growing season, the vine can be cut by one-half after the main bloom period. Varieties that flower on old and new wood will often throw out a few blooms at the end of the growing season.
Transplanting: Young vines may be moved with plenty of soil as long as they are watered religiously. Depending on variety, cut back lightly or severely before moving in early spring.
Pruning: Dead or damaged stems may be removed at any time. Early in the first spring after planting, prune the stems of all Clematis varieties down to the lowest pair of healthy buds. Thereafter, prune to control size and shape or to encourage more profuse bloom.
Flowering tends to decline on stems that are four or more years old, so it's a good idea to prune out very old stems periodically in early spring. This pruning helps produce more compact plants with flowers closer to eye level. Sometimes, on older vines, the flowering is confined to a small area at the tops of the stems. If you wish, you can rejuvenate old plants by cutting them back severely, to about 18in. Wait until after the first flush of bloom to perform the surgery.
Group II plants bloom first on old wood and then again on new; prune lightly in early spring to shape and remove weak growth and then prune after bloom if desired. Group II varieties include Rosemoor™
End of Season Care: Plants may be mulched, but take care to keep mulch material away from the crowns and stems of the plants. Check to make sure that the vines of Group I and II plants are tied securely to supports to withstand winter winds.
Calendar of Care
Early Spring: Fertilize with 5-10-10 when new growth reaches two inches. If you need to move a plant, transplant young vines now. Wait until new growth appears before removing dead or damaged stems and before pruning as required by variety: leave Group I Clematis alone; prune Group II plants lightly to shape and remove weak growth; cut Group III varieties back to 12 inches above the ground, or higher if you desire taller vines.
If this is the first spring after planting, prune stems of all varieties down to the lowest pair of healthy buds to encourage strong growth and new stems.
Mid-Spring: Continue feeding every month, alternating 5-10-10 with 10-10-10. Plant annuals at base of plants if unprotected by flat stones to allow for a cool root zone. Gently tie vines to supports as they grow.
Late Spring: Mulch if desired but keep material away from crowns and stems. Water thoroughly if season is dry. Cultivate around vines with care as physical injury will cause wilting and death of injured stems. Continue to guide new growth by tying to supports as needed. Lightly prune Group I Clematis immediately after flowering to shape the vines if needed.
Summer: Watch for signs of fungal wilt and remove and destroy affected plant parts if it occurs, then sterilize pruners with bleach solution. Group II Clematis may be pruned back by one-half after main flush of bloom to encourage strong growth and new flowers. Continue to water if conditions indicate.
Fall: Check to be certain that the vines of Group I and II varieties are tied securely to supports to withstand winter wind and snow. Mulch if desired, keeping material away from the crown. If the season is dry, water well and deeply.
Saturday, August 04, 2012
Side Garden Cleanup
With my training season winding down, and summer kicking my garden in the butt, I took some time Friday to clean up the side bed.
I just moved down the alley and cut down everything that wasn't grass or sesame plant (the neighbors will harvest those later).
Here are some photos of the alley mess...
And then a few of the cut-down hydrangea and daisies.
Both plants have new shoots, so I hope I didn't do the wrong thing by cutting them now.
As with all things gardening, time will tell...
I just moved down the alley and cut down everything that wasn't grass or sesame plant (the neighbors will harvest those later).
Here are some photos of the alley mess...
And then a few of the cut-down hydrangea and daisies.
Both plants have new shoots, so I hope I didn't do the wrong thing by cutting them now.
As with all things gardening, time will tell...
Sunday, March 25, 2012
Garden - Maintenance
Jan
Grass - remove green shoots as soon as they appear (oops forgot this year!)
February
Foxglove - Prune off winter-damaged leaves
Daffodils and Hyacinths - cut off heads as soon as the flowers die
Liatris - divide and move (last chance of frost)
March/April
Hosta - divide and replant
Buddleia - prune
Buddleia - prune
May
Azalea - prune after bloom, cut out whole branches
Hibiscus - new growth will come up in late spring
Foxglove - remove spent flower spikes to promote rebloom.
Foxglove - remove spent flower spikes to promote rebloom.
June/July
Achillea (yarrow) - will fall over if too wet; encourage repeat bloom by deadheading the spent flowers just above the buds of new flowers.
Hydrangea - prune 1/3
Summer
Liatris - remove spike tips to trim away dead flowers
Heliopsis - remove faded flowers for more blooms (next to Buddleia)
Buddleia - remove dead flowers regularly
Buddleia - remove dead flowers regularly
Fall
Buddleia - cut to 1" from ground
Foxglove - do not cut back
Rudbeckia - Dead-heading or cutting back faded flowers regularly will encourage the plant to re-bloom later in the season. Seedheads are good for winter interest, if you choose to keep them, and are also a good food for the birds. Rudbeckia self-sows freely, so deadhead if you do not want volunteer seedlings next season.Echinacea - Grows from roots and seeds
Nov
Roses - prune
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